Isuzu FAQ Rodeo, Amigo, Rodeo Sport and Trooper (1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003)



Link to Rodeo Trooper (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997)

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The list is a bunch of information that I have collected from other Isuzu owners over the past 10 years.  


The FAQ's that I created is about 95% Copy and Paste from other peoples posts at message forums. I have been reading Isuzu forums for about 10 years now. When I started to see there were a lot of the same problems I started to bookmark them.  February 2004, on a snowy day while sitting on my couch I spent 8 hours, pulling it all together. This page was updated on Jan 2010

Therefore PLEASE use these suggestions on this site at your OWN RISK! 

Other questions?  Post your questions here: Automotiveforums



PDF file of  0-100k of maintenance on my 2000 Amigo 3.2L auto

A. 30k Maintance?

  1. I have a P0401 code, so how do I clean my EGR?
  2. A.) I have a CODE P 440: Evap system, what is the problem?
  1. My gas gauge is wrong how do I fix it?
  1. My engine is knocking and ping’ing what can I do?
  1. My truck seems to use a lot of oil, why?
  1. I hear an air leak sound while the engine is running and my engine runs ruff, what could it be?  Intake manifold gasket leaking: (P0300).
  1. How to repack front wheel bearing, and when?
  1. I have transmission  problems ( ECU code: P1870).
  1. I have lower gas mileage what can I do?
  1. My Rodeo or Amigo thumps or clunks while stopping or taking off from a stop?
  1. I want to change my timing belt what else should I change?
  1. Where can I purchase OEM parts?
  1. Where can I purchase non OEM parts?
  1. Where can I buy OEM used parts (mirrors, wheels, lights, body parts . . . )?
  1. My Check engine light came on, where can I get it read at?
  1. How do I change the spark plugs and which plugs should I use?
  1. How and when should I replace my fuel filter?
  1. I have knocking sound under idle and and/or around 2500 RPM, what can I do?

 18.  I would like to replace my shocks, which one should I use?

  1. I would like to buy a lift, bumpers, locker or other off road equipment, where can I buy it from?

  2. I want to replace my Amigo's hardtop with a soft top, is it possible?
  3. Is there a serpentine belt diagram available?
  4. My Truck takes a long time to start (cranks an excessive length of time).
  5. How do I remove the stereo and speakers from My Rodeo/Amigo?
  6. What does my warranty cover?
  7. How do I keep my fog lights on with high or low beams?
  8. The Alarm goes off randomly (when cold)?
  9. Where can I check for Recall  and/or TSB info?
  10. I have my trouble code what does it mean?
  11. Can I install a supercharger?
  12. I would like to install a hitch, where can I buy it and now do I install it?
  13. Do you have the Amigo song from 1998 (what goes down stairs sometimes in pairs . . . )?
  14. What are some other Isuzu related Message forums?
  15. How can I tint my Amigo's sunroof?
  16. How can I Dynamat my Amigo/Rodeo?
  17. How do I stop that popping noise when I open my door on my 98 and newer Rodeo or Amigo?
  18. Where are there Isuzu Off Road events?
  19. Where can I purchase a manual at?
  20. Where can I purchase a hard top for my Amigo?
  21. Squeaking sound coming from the hood, how do I fix it?
  22. Are there any Isuzu news sites?
  23. How do I reprogram my keyless entry fob?
  24. How TOD (TORQUE-ON-DEMAND) works?
  25. How do I check the fluid level on my Tranny?
  26. What the heck is Direct Injection?
  27. I'm sporadically losing power, what can it be?

  28. How do I replace the bulbs in my tailights (Rodeo)?
  29. How to change the Rear diffy Fluid:
  30. My factory 6 disk CD player died (ERR3) what can I do?
  31. I would like to add a high flow air filter, which one?
  32. I want to replace my rubber bushings with poly ones, where can I buy some?
  33. What does the Power and Winter buttons do?
  34. Possible ways to help sensitive ABS brakes
  35. How Performance Chips work?
  36. How to Turn the ABS light off?
  37. Rodeo or Amigo dash rattle?
  38. Where in the antifreeze drain plug on the block?
  39. Transmission leaking possibilities?
  40. Transmission filter replacement and partial fluid swap?
  41. faulty transmission range sensor
  42. Intermittent wiper function has failed
  43. Electrical problems
  44. Engine Stalling Problem (OBDII P Code P0101) 
  45. Sea Foam Opinions
  46. Power Steering fluid replacement
  47. Tips for removing the Alternator
  48. How to replace the headlight bulb
  49.  Problems with the Drive by wire
  50. 4wd always on or doesn't work
  51. Replacing the idler belt pulley
  52. Torque spec intake manifold
  53. Sunroof fixes
  54. Windshield fluid tank leaks
  55. Heater problems and over Heating problems
  56. How to Flush the radiator
  57. Problems with turn directional
  58. BRAKE light on
  59. Key stuck in ignition
  60. Clunking under Feet
  61. Isuzu Engine Rebuild Kits
  62. Firing Order
  63. How to check for a redesigned 3.5L
  64. Location of 02 sensors (oxygen)
  65. Automatic Gear Selector Lock won't release 

  66. I need an exhaust system (muffler, cat-back)
  67. Location of PCV
  68. Steering Shaking, Wheels won't balance
  69. Muffler install on a Trooper
  70. How to change oil Trooper and Rodeo
  71. Trailer harness
  72. Wheel Center Cap
  73. anyone know where to get ALTEZZA taillights for 98 rodeo?
  74. How to replace the starter on a Trooper, Rodeo, Amigo, VX
  75. Brake lights and cruise control don't work when the headlights are on
  76.  Possible fix for a blinking check engine light (CEL)
  77. Wheel Alignment how to
A. 30k maintenance?
1) Change front and rear axle oil 
2) Change transfer case oil - included in the above time 
3) Replace Air Cleaner Filter 
4) Change engine coolant (seems kind of early)
5) Rotate tires 
6) Repack front wheel bearings (tires are already off due to the rotation above) 
7) Check battery fluid – included in oil/filter change below 
8) Check engine coolant level – included below 
9) Check brake fluid level – included below 
10) Check fluid leaks – included below 
11) Change engine oil – included below 
12) Replace engine oil filter 
13) Check heater hoses – 
14) Check exhaust system 
15) Check engine drive belt 
16) Check tires and wheels – included in rotation above 
17) Check steering operation  including lube 
18) Check brake lines and hose – included below 
19) Check disk brakes – 
20) Check brake pedal play – should be included in the above 
21) Check parking brake – 
22) Lube accelerator linkage – 
23) Check suspension and steering – steering included with 17, suspension 
24) Check power steering fluid level – included in oil change 
25) Lube body and chassis – included in oil change 
26) Check TOD system fluid – included in oil change 
27) Check auto cruise control linkage and hose ??? Never used cruise control, lets assume 10 minutes 
28) Check starter safety switch – 
29) Check accelerator linkage – included in 22 
30) Lube key lock cylinder – 
Finally yearly I would also, clean out the EGR (instruction below), and clean or replace the PCV, and 
the throttle body.

1. How do I clean the EGR: (CEL code:  P0401)

Some have also reported a diesel/exhaust sound coming from the engine bay, caused by the nut on the bottom of the EGR valve coming loose or free. If this nut is loose, use a 22 mm "stubby" wrench to tighten as tight as you can get it.

couple of how to with photos:

Here is a how to on opening up the egr and cleaning it out

Same one with better photos

1 : Remove the EGR valve there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust, flow don’t worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000 miles. 

2: Check your local dealer for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner (spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into the vacuum port you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle by hand spray until the can is empty.

3 : check your EGR valve push the pintle on the bottom be sure it moves in and out freely if not clean it don’t replace the valve once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.


TIP: If you want to clean the EGR port which is located behind the throttle body, you can open up the throttle body and stick a 3/8" diameter poly-vinyl hose onto it.  Then you can spray carb clean in the port (the one by the EGR) and all the junk will flush out the tube, instead of into your engine.


I used 3/8" ID tube that I got at Lowes. However it was a bit small, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to expand it; I just slipped the hose over the pliers' tips and spread them out and held them in place for a minute or so, the hose slipped right onto the EGR tube then. I did have to remove the throttle body to more easily access the EGR tube.


photos of the inside of the intake after 80k


Here is my own write up:

First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.

I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried 
to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake
 and place it above the TB.

So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of 
carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake
 and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1,
 and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in 
the butterfly to let it air out.

Next I removed the egr, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the egr itself. I sprayed down the inside of
 the egr and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the egr tube and the hole next to it,
 and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the egr sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes
 before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.

Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing.
 I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10 
seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light!
 NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated 
the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled 
in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car 
yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!

Just a little FYI, +98 Isuzu have a solenoid to activate the sprung pintel in the EGR. The pintel is what gets carboned up, and needs to be cleaned. Diaphram EGR's, are actuated by vacuum lines to the EGR. Many mechanics are not use to this new solenoid activated EGR and assume that when there is a fault code, it is a bad diaphram.


Link to photos of the EGR port

2A.  I have a CODE P 440: Evap system, what is the problem?

The first thing to do is the check the gas cap, make sure it is tight, make sure you give it 5 or 6 clicks.  Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes.  And then start it up.  If the CEL is still on, the next step would be to clean the EGR (see the above write-up).


2.  My gas gauge is wrong how do I fix it?

You have a bad sending 
unit.  If you are still in warranty you may get your dealer to replace 
 If not you can purchase the sending unit without the fuel pump.  
The part number for the 1998-2000 Rodeo is P/N 8-25323-011-0. 
 Cost ~36.00 
from St. Charles 
Part number for Amigo: P/N 8-25232-011-0 

if your gas gauge is not working and you may have a check engine light on as well then you need a new fuel sending unit. Dealers may tell you that you need a new fuel pump and that a fuel sending unit is not available for your vehicle. However, this is not that case. I have Isuzu OEM/Factory fuel sending units that will fit any Rodeo and Passport from 1998-2002. You will not need to recalibrate anything and it should cost no more than $150 to install, or you can do it yourself in under 2 hours! This unit WILL fix you problem. Do not let the dealer rip you off! I fixed mine in my 2000 Rodeo 4x4 and figured I may as well help others out and save other hundreds of dollars. My item is for sale by calling Andy at (407) 625-4295 or or by looking on for Seller awnicol25. Good luck! Save some money!
Write up how to:

Another how to link:


GM Canada has changed its policy with the fuel sending unit (FSU). They will not repair the FSU under warranty under any circumstances now. As I was told "you are on your own". Even though the FSU is one part with the fuel pump, now the FSU is not covered under the powertrain warranty. This policy has changed since december.

So I called Merlin at St.Charles Isuzu to order one for my 2000 rodeo ls and I found out that the FSU is made specifically for the 1999 model My 2000 rodeo pcm would have to be reprogrammed and even after the reprogramming St. Charles Isuzu has had customers return with complaints. So they only change the FSU on 1999 models only. All other models they replace the whole fuel pump.

Hello Ryan:

Your Isuzu fact-finding website  #faq2 

was a huge help in my research on a ongoing problem I have had with my 2000 
Isuzu Rodeo.  I am the original owner and a year ago, went to the dealer and 
they indicated the FUEL SENDING UNIT (fuel gauge not working) was not covered 
under the Powertrain 10yr/100K warranty.  Well after reviewing notes on your 
site, I contacted the Isuzu corporate customer service and they indicated that 
IT IS covered.  I called the local Houston, TX dealer and they said no it's not 
that it "is not attached directly to the fuel pump - therefore it is not 
considered part of the warranty".  I told them to please call the Isuzu 
customer service/owner relations manager that I spoke to (800) 255-6727 to get 
Isuzu's most recent information and to fix my car!

It worked, I just rec'd my warranty work for the fuel sending unit (FSU) and 
paid nothing!  Please post my info on your site, so other Isuzu owners can do 
the same.  Isuzu customer relations number works wonders!  If a dealer is giving 
you a hard time - refer to the corporate office - it worked for me.

Thanks for all your efforts with the web info - it saved me $470.00 for this FSU 

Stacey Cramer
Houston, Texas
(2000 Isuzu Rodeo LS owner)

3My engine is knocking and ping’ing what can I do?

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. Check the link below to buy them for 6.80/plug (note the dealer charges about 17/plug)

The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code (misfire code: P1340).  Also, it has been noted that some 00 trucks came with champion plugs from the factory, which cause knocking, due to to ion sense coils.

 If you have 1998-1999, the suggested plugs are NGK or Denso or Champion double platinum plugs. 

A dirty EGR port may cause knocking.  Knocking also, may be caused by carbon build-up in the combustion chamber.  Adding one 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate® every 3k, will help to keep the combustion chamber and fuel injectors clean.   Also Sea Foam is another excellent product to use (it can be added to the gas and the oil).

Finally keep that PCV valve clean!  Either replace it once a year, or pull it every 6 months or so and spray it out with some carb cleaner.


4My truck seems to use a lot of oil, why?

Did your engine blow up in your Trooper/Rodeo?  if so file a complaint at:  link

Oil usage. Yep Isuzu states that 1qt/1000miles is within spec. So the key is to keep an eye on your oil. The most common ways to decrease your oil consumption is to clean your EGR valve and tube, EGR port (behind the intake butterfly) (link to a how to clean the EGR), replace the PCV valve. Also, trying to keep the rings clean (add Chevron Techron Concentrate® every 3k, and right before every oil change add half a bottle of Sea Foam® to the oil (following the directions) take it for a 20 drive and then drain the oil (after doing this 3 times, I now use zero oil every 3k).  Dirty rings (holes in the rings) are the main cause for oil usage.  The 98-mid00 have fewer and smaller drain holes in the rings as compared to the 93-97 3.2L rings.  The second part of 2000 Isuzu put in rings with more and bigger holes, but there still seems to be many 2000-2002 Isuzu’s that use oil.

Oil usage commonly increases while driving the truck hard, including during highway interstate conditions.  If your taking a cross country trip, check your oil every time you fill up with gas.

If you take many short trips with your truck, make sure you change the oil at least every 3k.  If you don’t run the truck (or any vehicle) at least 30 minutes every time it is started up the oil breakdown products are not able to boil off and can cause sludgeing (which can clog those oil rings).

[edit 1June2005] I have been reading more and more (almost weekly) about Trooper owners who run their +98 trucks out of oil due to this issue. Please check your oil weekly!

some report that Rotella oil has stopped their oil burning Troopers (3.5L)   link to discussion

Another good discussion  added 21Jan2007


Link to discussion

Link 2 to discussion

Link 3 Discussion

discussion 3

Head to just about any Isuzu board and search for oil.

Oil Pressure gauge install

Quote from an Isuzu tech:

"the piston has three rings top compression second compression and oil scraper ring the oil scraper ring land (groove) has oil drain back hole in the piston which get plugged causing oil consumption I've reringed to many of these motors under warranty for isuzu."

At some point Isuzu change the design of the Trooper 3.5L (and I would bet the 3.5L direct injection found in some Rodeos) pistons to help reduce oil consumption.  If you have a PCV valve that screws in (one that is treaded) you have the new engine type. Link to more info

The Isuzu service bulletin regarding excessive oil consumption (> 1qt per 
1000 miles) is service bulletin # IB00-01-5002. 

 As for Oil useage, I was reading my CD manual last night, and it stated the following reasons for increased oil consumption: 1. Dirty EGR (system) 2. Dirty PCV 3. Carbon up piston rings 4. Long highway trip 5. Towing


Background - I got a zillion miles on my Troop. '98, 3.5. Its burned oil for years...actually for 6 years. Last few years has been 1qt/400 miles. Didnt seem to affect the vehicle at all - ran super duper.

What I have tried as far as fixing the oil burning?
1. Auto RX clean/rinse 4 times - 2000 mile clean, 2000 mile rinse. 4 times.
2. Seafoam - 1/4 can in the crankcase. 1/2 can in the crankcase, full can in the crankcase - You name it, ive donr it. Hell, Ive run a full can for 300 miles before draining.
3. Cylinder soaks.
4. New EGR, cleaned EGR tube, New PCV
5. Mobil 1 5w-20, 5-30, 10-30, tried 'em all!

Ive done it all over the years. Nothing cured the oil burn. I quit trying to fix the burning about a year ago. I just said the heck with it and bought a case of Walmart oil on sale and put it out of my mind.

So I was browsing Bob is the oil the other day.... ran across some deeply-buried post from a 1999 trooper owner who said he cured his oil burning by using Shell Rotella 15w-40 diesel truck oil.

Of course I thought Bull-s__t, it wont work. We need a thinner oil to get through our clogged drainback holes!

But I decided to try it anyways. Just to prove him wrong I guess.

I cant F-ing believe it. You dont F-ing believe it either Im sure, but my oil level has not dropped even a millimeter in over 1000 miles! 

5. I hear an air leak sound while the engine is running and my engine runs ruff, what could it be?  Intake manifold gasket leaking: (P0300).

photos of the inside of the intake after 80k

Do you have a Rough idle, check engine light on, or air leak noise from under the hood. The Intake gasket breaking may be the cause on the 98 and newer v/6 Trooper and Rodeo.

Surging, stalling and system lean bank codes points towards a bad intake manifold gasket.

You may also hear whistling sound that goes away after a couple of weeks.  It goes away after the hole in the gasket gets bigger.

Quote from a Rodeo owner:

"I keep getting a check engine light on my 98 and have two codes that keep showing up.

1) Miss in Cylinder 4 - I've replaced the spark plugs, what's next - coil pack or wires or something else? Any ideas before I spend a lot of money?

2) High idle - I replaced the idle air control valve" - The fix was replacing the IMG.

Torque spec intake manifold

Only info I can give you is that there's a TSB (technical service bulletin) on all 1998 to 2003 Isuzu models equipped with 3.2L or 3.5L engine that revamps the torque specifications for the "gasket intake manifold to cylinder head". Revised torque for both the 3.2L and the 3.5L is 13 lb ft.

Use a inner to outer criss cross pattern

Stalling / TSB about a leaky intake manifold gasket.  Presents itself as a sporadic stalling problem under the following conditions: a. Engine at normal operating temp. b.  Low speed or acceleration from a stop.  c.  15-20 seconds before shut down, engine feels sluggish like missing fuel. d. The engine stalls and is hard to start but after 3-5 minutes of rest it does perfectly fine and engine runs smoothly. Solution 1: Check computer and reset/check PCM wires. Solution 2: Dealership says most of the 3.2L's they checked for a leaky gasket turned out to have it.

If you have the 10yr/120k warranty you are covered.

If you are the second owner (2000-2002) you are covered for 5yr/60k.

Isuzu P/N: 8-97237-538-0 list for $18.88 ea 
This message was from Sam Jelinek, who many of you know from ZuZoo and elsewhere. He is an Isuzu Master Mechanic
 I believe, and in this message he described how to replace an intake manifold gasket on the 3.2/3.5 engine. 

Please note that I have not tried this procedure, and cannot say if and how well it works.  I offer it simply because many of us with Isuzu V6 engines are getting out of warranty now, and may need DIY instructions.

So here it is, paraphrased and edited for clarity (Sam is a better mechanic than writer):

Quote: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Something that has been showing up even more lately on the new V6 engine, the intake gaskets are starting to leak and break. If the gasket is leaking real bad you can hear an air leak from the engine, almost like the airbox is not tight.

Using a can of carb cleaner you can check this very easy. Spray around the intake, most of the time on the drivers side, and you can find the leak.

To repair the leak, here is how it goes:

Remove the air intake hose from the throttle body.

Remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake. No need to remove any other hoses from the throttle body.

Unhook the injector wiring from each injector.

This is the hard part: on the passenger side of the intake you have to remove the EGR flow pipe nut. You will need a 7/8" or 22mm wrench, may even have to cut the wrench short to get it in there.

Remove the 2 long bolts on each side.

Remove the 2 short bolts from each side, I think they are on the front and rear of the intake.

On the Troopers the intake will lift up enough to get the old gaskets out. On the Rodeo use short bungy cords to hold the intake up so that the old gaskets can be removed.

When removing the old gaskets be careful, they may be broken. Do not let the pieces fall into the intake.

Use a clean rag to wipe off the intake surface on the cylinder head and reinstall the new gaskets.

Let the intake back down and start the EGR flow pipe before putting the other bolts in the intake.

Reinstall the other bolts and air intake hose.

Another Isuzu owners input on changing the IMG:

Note these were for a 99 Amigo with the 3.2 engine (3.5 and 3.2 are the same for 98-04).  

1.  After unhooking the injector wiring from each injector,  remove the 4
bolts attaching the fuel rail to the intake manifold.  Then remove the
injectors from the manifold.

2.  I found no need to cut down the 7/8" wrench.  A normal 7/8" wrench 
in fine with no altercation.  However, I did need to cut down an allen
wrench (I think it was 6mm) to remove a metal bracket attached to the
drivers side, rear end on the top manifold cover.  There are 2 bolts
holding this on.  Also I removed the 2 bolts holding a vacuum diaphragm to
the rear of the manifold.  Remove any wires and hoses to the top manifold
(these are obvious).  The top manifold will then slip out and off, towards
the front of the vehicle.  This gives you complete access to the top
manifold gasket and mating surfaces.

3.   After removing the 4 corner nuts, the lower manifold can be raised
just barely, and I mean just barely, enough to pull the old gaskets out.,
and weasel the new ones in.  I found it helpful to have someone pry up the
manifold (careful where you pry as to not damage mating surfaces) while I
worked the gaskets out and in.


6.  How to repack front wheel bearing, and when?

The manual states it should be done every 30k.  Others have stated that if you do not do deepwater crossings, or off-road in the mud you should be safe having them repacked when you have the front brakes replaced (stick with OEM pads, non OEM pads usually cause squeaking)  You can check to see if your bearings need to be repacked by: jacking the front wheel of the ground.  Grab onto the top and bottom of the wheel and tug back and forth.  If you have excessive play you should think about repacking the bearings.  I currently have 64k on my OEM pads and I have plenty of pad left (most folks get about 80-120k on there OEM pads; Stick with OEM pads when you replace them);  I had my bearings repacked at the dealer at 50k (I wanted to be safe)

How To article:


7.  I have transmission  problems ( ECU code: P1870).

I have not read many posts on problems with the transmissions on the 98-03 Isuzu's.  Some common problems are that the tranny feels like it is slipping or it is shifting funny.  Many times this is due the a weak charging system (battery that is dieing, or the alternator is on the way out) or the electrical connection to the tranny is loose and dirty.  Also, others have noted that the funny feeling is due to low or dirty fluid.  Finally it can be caused by a faulty tranny selector (the connection needs to be cleaned and put back together with dielectric grease).

As for changing the tranny fluid, some are for flushing and others think that dropping the pan is the best way.  If you only drop the pan you will only be removing about 40% of the fluid, whereas the flush will pretty much replace all of the fluid.  There is a filter in the pan that should be replace at some point (your guess is as good as mine, but some have mentioned a 60-90K interval to replace the filter, but always change the fluid at least every 30K or sooner if you only do a partial fluid swap).  Fluid is cheap, but a new tranny costs about 3500 bucks, keep up on your tranny maintenance.


the problem (after replacing the mode sensor and the controller box under the steering wheel) turned out to be a faulty (loose) transmission ground.  The computer cable plug was resolving the problem because there are two separate pins for grounds on the car's computer plug-in  which the computer plug repaired by connecting the faulty ground to a good one. 
    If other Isuzu owners are getting a light show on the gear lights they should consider that it might be a loose ground.  Why this problem was worse on the first start in the morning, I'm not sure, but if plugging in a computer cable solves the problem, then check the ground wires.

 How to on a Isuzu Transmission Rebuild Hydra-Matic 4L30-E automatic transmission (17meg file):


8.  I have lower gas mileage what can I do?

Might be due to, colder weather, winter grade gas, dirty PCV valve, dirty EGR, dirty air filter, dirt Mass air flow sensor (there is a spray you can buy to clean it out), dirty fuel injectors, low tire pressure, larger then oem tire size, front and/or rear end needs to be aligned, dirty air filter, weak battery or weak alternator.  If you replace or clean any of the above pieces make sure you disconnect the battery for at least 15 minutes so the ECU will recalibrate itself.

After replacing the intake manifold gasket (there was no CEL on) fuel mileage had jumped 4mpg to 13mpg nyc driving!
If you have over 100k on your O2 sensors think about swapping out the front 2 O2 sensors.  Then think about swapping out the rear 2 O2 
sensors (yes there is 4 of them).  So have reported a 2MPG increase after doing it:
Also, many owners run their tires at 35-40 psi (Isuzu recommends 26-29)


9.  My Rodeo or Amigo thumps or clunks while stopping or taking off from a stop:

How To fix it:

This is not normal.  It is due to the slip yolk needing to be greased.  This is a common problem on the 1998-2003 Rodeo’s and Amigo’s due to the 2 piece design.  The 2004 have a one piece design (wonder why?).  Re-greasing the slip yolk, or drilling and taping and inserting a grease zerk can fix the problem, for awhile at least, until it needs to be greased again.  Some dealers will do this under warranty.  I paid my dealer 50 bucks to do the job.

Recommend  using RED CROWN grease

 Link to slip yolk on a Ford truck (good reference)

10.  I want to change my timing belt what else should I change?

The number one thing you need to replace while the timing belt is being replaced is the belt tensor and the water pump.  If either of these two go bad after the timing belt is replace you will have to pay for the labor again.  So if they (the tech) are already in there have them replaced.  It has been noted that the 3.2 and the 3.5L 98-04 engines are non-interference.  One owner noted that after he had his timing belt replaced at local shop, but when he drove it home the engine ran very rough.  He took it into the dealer, and then found that one crank shaft was 180 degrees out on synch.   They moved it back 180, buttoned it up and it run perfect.  I have read many posts of owners changing their belts at the 100-120k mark (many comment that it still looked like new; if you tow a lot I would change the belt out sooner).  I have heard  very few people that have snapped the belts on the +98 (I can only think of one).

More info on changing the belt:

More info on changing the belt, includes videos:

 TSB: SB99-01-S002

They also no longer recommend a timing belt interval of 75k miles for normal service. The new interval for normal is 100k for the 98 3.2l and 3.5l motors. They are "non-interference", so the consequence for a belt breaking is that your vehicle no longer has engine power, not that your engine powers through itself for lunch. Under severe service, 75k is still the recommendation.

11.  Where can I purchase OEM parts?

The guys at St Charles Isuzu, have the best prices on OEM parts (free shipping).  Mention you heard about them on the web and they will give you an additional discount.  Make sure you tell them your heard about them from the Ryan Endres' Isuzu FAQ page!

Toll Free: 800-727-8066

 Link to a website to look up part numbers:


12.  Where can I purchase non OEM parts?
Your internet wheel & tire source, Specializing in American 
Racing wheels, Motegi Wheels, Motto wheels, Riax wheels, Nitto tires, 
BF Goodrich tires, Yokohama tires & more. We also offer package deals 
shipped directly to your door.
OEM rims


13.  Where can I buy OEM used parts (mirrors, wheels, lights, body parts . . . )?


14. My Check engine light came on, where can I get it read at?

Autozone, offers free code reading (the dealer will charge 60 bucks or more to read the codes.  The most common reason the CEL will come on is due to the gas cap is not tight enough or something else emission related CODE P 440

You can buy a cheap code reader for 30-50 bucks (often on sale) at Harbor Freight link to code reader .  If you take it to the dealer or another mechanic your going to pay 50-80 bucks for them to read your codes.  Nice piece of equipment to keep in your glove box or garage, so you can help others to diagnose there their troubles.


15.  How do I change the spark plugs and which plugs should I use?

This is for 3.2 and 3.5L

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. Check the link below to buy them for 6.80/plug (note the dealer charges about 17/plug) 

Plugs for Direct Injection 3.5L engines:  Denso Iridium SXU16HPR9

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code (misfire code: P1340).  Also, it has been noted that some 00 trucks came with champion plugs from the factory, which cause knocking, due due to ion sense coils.

 If you have 1998-1999, the suggested plugs are NGK or Denso or Champion double platinum plugs. 

It has been suggested that bosch platinum plugs commonly cause the CEL to come on in +98 Isuzu's.

To remove the coil over the plug, remove the two screws, then unplug the connector (two wires going in) then twist twist twist the coil (wrap fingers under the coil), and then twist and pull up.  If you only tug up it may not come off the plug.  The key to getting to the drivers side firewall plug is to use 2 short extensions, a U-joint, and the long extension.  Then by feeding the short extensions into the plug hole one at a time followed by the u-joint and the long extension.  -OR-  If the have the all three drivers side coils off you can remove the rear drivers side plug using your socket and 2 3" extensions (no u-joints).  Also, if you remove all three coil packs you can get to the rear plug with 2 three inch extension and NO u-joint.  The easy way to get the plug back in the hole is to place a piece of rubber tube (or a clear flexible tube) onto the end of the plug and then put the assembly into the hole and gently screw it in to assure that you are not cross threading the plugs.  Make sure you place some di-electrical grease on the top of the plug and some anti-seize on the treads.

 Just passing along some info that some might not be aware of. Don't try to remove plugs in an Aluminum head while it's warm, the thermal expansion/contraction is different in both materials. The plug will be expanded longer than the head, you can pull threads out doing this. Always use Anti-Sieze on Aluminum heads. From the Edelbrock site "When installing spark plugs into all Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads, be sure to use anti-seize thread lubricant at all times".

If you have a stuck coil pack and twisting and pulling doesn't get the coil pack up try the following.  Use a thin piece of string and tie it in a loop.  Place the loop around the under the rubber part and then yank it up.  I had to do this to the coil by the master cylinder.  OR -- pop off the coil from the tube (it is two pieces) and then shoot some compressed air (~20lbs of pressure) down the tube and it should pop right off!

More idea's for removing a stuck coil tube:  soak it down with WD40. There is suppose to be a special pliers at Autozone that is suppose to help get it out.


I stumbled on a real easy way to remove the coil pack tube if the coil pack comes off and the tube stays FIRMLY attached to the top of the plug. I had that happen where I struggle  to get several off and finally just had one that would not release.   I eventually tried hooking up my little compressor with one of those little pointed adapters attached. Put that down into the center hole of the plug and turned on the compressor...popped the tube right off the plug. Might save someone having to replace a torn coil pack assembly since I understand you can't just buy the tube.

 Finally, the product

Lessons learned:
1) If the boot has not come off before 70K miles, be ready for a challenge ahead of you
2) Need 90+ psi to "pop" off the boot. For my Trooper, there is no way to get the boot to pop off under 90 psi.
3) Dielectric grease at the end of the boot is an absolute must unless you enjoy going through this pain again
4) Take your time with the pulling and yanking of the boot. The "string" or electric wire in my case definitely gives you more leverage but don't be pulling on it with all your force. I did the air, pull, air, more pulling, more air, more yanking before it popped out.
5) And if it is really stubborn, liberally spray penetrating oil down the middle and wait overnight
6) When putting coil back on, the manual says 35 ft/lbs torque on the two screws but the screw would continue to turn...I don't think the manual is correct for this
7) FINAL WORD of ADVICE: In my case, it may be worth the money to bring it to a shop and have them do it. I've changed many spark plugs before on Toyota, Honda, BMW, Lexus, Nissan, Ford and Subaru...and this one was a hummer (due to the pain in the a** removal of the boot). If I knew it would be this painful, I would have written a check. Think about it before you pull too hard and end up paying $200/each for a new boot/coil assembly.


16.  How and when should I replace my fuel filter?

The manual states every 30k.  The OEM part cost less then 15 bucks and is located under the driver’s side door in the frame rail.  There is one bolt that keeps the filter in the bracket.  Also, to lessen gas spillage remove the gas cap, and you can pull the fuel pump fuse under the hood, start it up and run it until it dies (note this may cause a CEL, but by disconnecting the battery, recommended while removing the fuel filter, it will clear the codes).  Once you have removed the screw, move the hose clamps back and then you can remove the rubber fuel lines by twisting (twist them for a bit, 20 seconds) and then twist and pull them off.  This is about a 30-45 DIY job.


17.  I have knocking sound under idle and and/or around 2500 RPM, what can I do?

Commonly this is caused by the idler tensor that keeps the serpentine belt (the only you can easily see on the engine) taught that is bad – or – the timing belt tensor is bad.  

Also, it can be caused by a spun rod bearing due to lack of oil.


18.  I would like to replace my shocks, which one should I use?

Many folks have replaced there stock shocks with: monroe sensa-tracs

Place to buy shocks:

Part numbers for Rodeos/Amigos:

Front: p/n 37159 

Rear: p/n 37160

Please NOTE: If you have ISC shocks from ISUZU the rear shocks listed here will not fit.

Here is a note from an ISC shock owner who found some shocks that fit:

I just got a set of Rancho RS9000X and they fit like a charm. Wrachet wrench would have been an asset but I yanked the useless ISC and intalled them w/o any major issues. I got the shocks at Sears:

front - RS99214
rear - RS99179

More info:


19.  I would like to buy a lift, bumpers, locker or other off road equipment, where can I buy it from?


20. I want to replace my Amigo's hardtop with a soft top, is it possible?

Yes it is possible.  I have a soft top for the summer and a hardtop for the winter.  I picked up a used top from for 150 bucks.  It took me a couple of hours the first time and now I can do the switch in under an hour.

More info:

Link with how to and photos

Quote from the above link:

Tools needed... 1)12mm socket, ratchet, extension 2)Phillips head screwdriver 3)Panel popper or flat head screwdriver First step, remove hard top... 1)two brackets at leading edge of top where it meets vehicle. Remove plastic cover, remove four bolts. Remove two brackets. 2)Remove plastic trim between roll bar and side window. Remove two bolts (one each side). 3)Remove covers above tail lights- four phillips head screws (two each side). Remove two bolts and two nuts (one each on each side) 4)Lift rear of top, unplug third brake light on left side and washer fluid hose on right side. 5)Lift top off, store in a safe place. Second step, remove rear window... 1)Remove rear windshield wiper, unlplug rear defroster. 2)Remove plastic covers from bolt heads for rear window mount brackets. Remove four bolts. Carefully detach weatherstripping from body. 3)Lift Window from body, store in a safe place. Third step, install tailgate trim... 1)Carefully remove tailgate panel with panel popper or flat head screwdriver (being careful not to scratch paint). 2)Install new weatherstripping/molding. 3)Reinstall rear cover panel. Make sure that the molding overlaps the panel along the top edge of panel. 4)*OPTIONAL* reinstall the mounting bolts and plastic covers so as not to lose them before hard top reinstallation. Fourth step, install softtop... 1)Mount latches to body where leading edge of softtop meets body (same place and mounting hardware as brackets that hold hard top to body). 2)Install plastic trim/side window retainers. There will be two bolts, one nut, and three phillips head screws per side. 3)Put soft top frame into place. Line up two bolt holes per side. Bolt down with four (two each side) 12mm head bolts. 4)Reinstall plastic trim that was between roll bar and rear side windows. This will leave a clean, factory look. 5)Install canvas top if not already installed. 6)Install rear window, zip into place. 7)Lock top into place with latches at front top. 8)Install side windows by zipping into place. Tuck bottom edge of side windows into place under the plastic trim/window retainers. Fifth step, enjoy... 1)Remove side window curtains... reverse of installing. 2)Unzip rear window, lay window down leaving bar installed in place. 3)Unlatch top... fold top back. 4)Climb in drivers seat... insert key into position, turn clockwise, put into gear... DRIVE! Much better!

21.  Is there a serpentine belt diagram available?

This belt should be changed when medium to large cracks are visible in the grooves of the belt (if  you can see the white threads change it soon).  Most belts last about 30-45K.  The OEM belt costs about 17 bucks from  St. Charles and it took me and my father about 5 minutes to replace.  The easiest way to relieve tension from the belt tensor is to place a 1-2 foot pipe on the end of your socket wrench (this will give you more torque).


22.  My Truck takes a long time to start (cranks an excessive length of time).

Leaking fuel pressure regulator is the common cause:

photo of the fuel pressure reg

Quote from the above link:

The original symptom was a Check Engine Light with a #6 cylinder misfire code of P0306 when set at idle, or a random misfire P0300 when set while driving. The #6 was obviously running rich as indicated by the the spark plug. Eventually it became a hard start also. Here's the fix: The fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel down it's manifold pressure vacuum line. The vacuum line attaches to the manifold right above the #6 port, that's why the richness only in that cylinder.

Fuel pressure regulator part # for 1999 Rodeo: 8-17113-398-0

Cost $54 from St. Charles Auto, (my local dealer's cost is $75. St. Charles Isuzu got it to me overnight for $65 which is cheaper than the local dealer sells it for. Funny that I could get it quicker and cheaper from Wisconsin than from the dealer down the street here in California). I was in contact with a guy named Merlin. Great service.

See below for tips on changing this part in a 1999 V6 Rodeo M/T.

 Read the whole thing prior to starting the job. I replaced the regulator in about 40 minutes and I wasn't rushing. It seems to have completely fixed these problems:

1) Erratic Idle (needle now rock solid at 750 RPM)

2) Frequent stalling at idle - doesn't stall at all

3) Hard starting - starts like it used to. No need to give it gas

. 4) Intermittent CEL light - gone The regulator has no electrical connections.

It is a diaphragm operated relief valve mounted on the fuel rail. Before attempting to change the part, you need to ensure that you remove all fuel pressure from the system. The following procedure from the service manual works like a charm. I used this procedure and there was absolutely no fuel pressure in the system. No fuel leakage at all when I removed the regulator. Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure (works great).

1) Remove the fuel cap.

2)Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box.

3) Start the engine and allow it to stall.

4) Crank the engine for 30 seconds.

5) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Caution - to reduce the risk of fire and injury, it is necessary to release fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components. Even after relieving fuel system pressure, a small amount of fuel will likely be released when servicing fuel line connections. Cover fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting the fittings in order to absorb any fuel that may leak out.

Leave the fuel pump relay out and the battery disconnected while you change the part.

Changing the part on a 1999 Rodeo is a bit different than the service manual shows. The regulator does not screw into the fuel rail. It sits down into the rail and is held in place by a snap ring.

Once you have removed the fuel line and the bracket that blocks access to the regulator you will clearly see the regulator and the snap ring. Before you start the job make sure that you have a pair of snap ring pliers that fit.

Use the new snap ring that comes with the part to ensure your tool will do the job. You will also need to modify a 6mm allen wrench by cutting the short end to within approximately 1/4" of the 90 degree bend. You will need it to remove the rear most of the 2 bolts that mount the bracket that is over the regulator. Ideally you should have two 6mm allen wrenches, an unmodified one for the front bolt and the modified one for the back bolt.

For ease of removal of the snap ring that holds the regulator in place on the fuel rail, it can be easily rotated once you have access to it by hand using the fuel line nipple for leverage. This enables you to turn it to a position where the snap ring is easily maneuvered out. Make sure that you remove all parts of the old regulator from the fuel rail before attempting to install the new one. Make sure that you remove the large blue o-ring, the wire mesh screen and the small black o-ring from inside the fuel rail. Just make sure that you remove all of the parts that you see on the new regulator.

Once you have it all back together, install the fuel pump relay and hook up the negative battery cable. Also make sure that you put the fuel cap back on. Start it up. Done.


23.  How do I remove the radio stereo and speakers from My Rodeo/Amigo?

Link to a PDF on how to remove the radio


24.  What does my warranty cover?


25.  How do I keep my fog lights on with high or low beams?

To keep your fog lights on with high or low beams, is an easy procedure.

To start with, pop off the carrier that holds the three switches to the left of the steering wheel using a flathead on the bottom of the carrier about a quarter inch off the two bottom corners and it will fall right out.

From there, snip the Yellow/Red wire (#4, second from the end) in the diagram.

Then ground the tail of the switch (the wire coming out of the switch), I grounded mine to the cigarette lighter. The ground wire on the cigarette lighter is the wire that attaches to the side of the back of the lighter.

Put everything back together and now you will be able to run your fogs on with high and low beams.


26. The alarm goes off randomly:

Rodeo: It's the tailgate switch. Open the door, take off the 2 Phillips head screws that hold the pin switch on (the one that controls the light) and stick two or three washers behind the switch under each screw.

Also check the hood pin:  It's by the ABS module over the pass side front fender well on the 1998+. The pin is covered by a rubber boot.


27.  Where can I check for Recall and/or TSB info?


28.  I have a trouble code but what does it mean?

P0102/P0103 diagnostic

It was the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow sensor). It sits between the air filter and the throttle valve.

I started out with these 2 trouble codes:
P0102 MAF or VAF CKT Low Input
P0103 MAF or VAF CKT High Input

I erased them several times and eventually would always get only the P0102.

I removed the MAF sensor (extremely easy) and gave it a good visual. Thing is that it has these really tiny sensors suspended in the air that register air flow in relation to throttle position which they feed back to the PCM (Power Control Module or main computer) in order to control fuel flow. There's no way to tell if they're bad when they all look intact.

I read the 5 volts to it from the PCM easily enough as per the shop manual, but I didn't have a scanner so that I could read the frequency at specific RPMs. It could have been the PCM, the MAF, the wiring in between, or maybe even the IMG's as a remote possibility.

I couldn't determine 100% that it was the MAF on my own. I didn't want to take a shot at it since the part isn't cheap and then if I had made the wrong choice have to end up also buying a PCM which has to be programmed when installed, and I also don't have tons of time to rip the vehicle wiring apart.

I brought it to a trusted local mechanic down the street who has the equipment and the time, showed him what I had found, and he verified that it's the MAF that's bad. I'll pick it up tomorrow morning and if everything is as it now stands, that will be the last entry for this excursion.

29.  Can I install a super charger?

Alpine use to make a bolt on supercharger; if you are lucky you can find one on ebay.  It typically added about 75HP

Here is another interesting setup I found on ebay: link  Morgan-tec performance in Fort Collins Co. did all the fabrication and installation


30.  I would like to install a hitch, where can I buy it and now do I install it?


31.  Do you have the Amigo song from 1998 (what goes down stairs sometimes in pairs . . . )?



32.  What are some other Isuzu related Message forums?





33. How can I tint my Amigo's sunroof?


34.  How can I Dynamat my Amigo/Rodeo?


35.  How do I stop that popping noise when I open my door on my 98 and newer Rodeo or Amigo?

First make sure the door check is tight. Then tighten the two 10mm head nuts on the door. Now, drive the pin at the door check up and remove the pin. Then remove the plastic bushing.

Now install the new brass bushing from your local "Planet Friendly" Isuzu dealership.
The part number is: P/N 8-97302-978-0

Then reinstall the pin and your done. You will be much happier with the sound from your door. If your truck is still under the 3-year, 50,000 mile warranty Isuzu will cover it for you.


36. Where are there Isuzu Off Road events?

Back in 1998 - 2002 there use to be an organized off road event in Moab with ~100 Isuzu trucks attending.  It still happens every year in May with about 30 trucks showing up.

37.  Where Can I purchase/download a manual at?

Free download (these come and go):

You may contact the publisher of the manual, HELM Inc. by calling 1-800-782-4356 or by writing them direct at:

Publications Division
P.O.Box 07280
Detroit Michigan 48207


38. Where can I purchase a hard top for my Amigo?

Aftermarket: There use to be aftermarket tops but no one makes them any more.

OEM used:


39.  Squeaking sound coming from the hood, how do I fix it?

The squeak is coming from the rubber bumpstops where the hood rests on. Find the side that is squeaking and give it a 1/2 turn and a dab of grease on top of the rubber bump stop.


40.  Are there any Isuzu news sites?


41.  How do I reprogram my keyless entry fob?

Link to the pdf manual for a VX (same as the trooper):

'98 - '02 Isuzu Rodeo and Trooper (with factory keyless entry) Instructions for programming 1. Get in car and make sure all doors are unlocked. 2. Open driver's door and leave open. 3. Put key in ignition. 4. Turn key to 'on position' (dash lights on, but do not start) and back to 'off position' 3 times in 5 seconds or less. (you must turn the key very fast) 5. Close and open driver's door 2 times in 5 seconds or less. 6. Turn key to 'on position' and back to 'off position' 5 times in 5 seconds or less. (turn key very fast) 7. Close and open driver's door the doors should lock and unlock twice after this happens push the lock or unlock button on the remote, doors will lock and unlock. Push the lock or unlock button a second time and doors will lock and unlock again. You are finished! The above sequence erases all previous codes and adds the new code as #1. If you are adding a second remote, you should follow the same sequence with the exception of step 6; instead of turning the key to the 'on position' and back to the 'off position' 5 times in 5 seconds or less, do it 3 times in 5 seconds or less and then continue to step 7. ***Remember to turn the key to the on and off position very fast.

 Ive just registered just to post this info. Ive searched high and low to find it, only to find many others looking for the same info, without any answers. so, if youve been looking here it is.

Programming the remote(s)

Controller for remote keyless is located under the driver seat.

If you look under the driver seat from the rear seat side you will see a

green button on the rear of the controller.


With key in off position have someone push and hold button. (a pencil is

useful here)


Turn key to on position

Security light at left of instruments will come on steady


Push door latch button on 1st remote

Security light will click and then go out

 Turn key to off position and then back to on

Security light at left of instruments will come on steady again

 Push door latch button on 2nd remote

Security light will click and then go out

 Turn key to off position and then back to on

 Security light at left of instruments will come on steady and after few

seconds start to blink

 Push rear hatch button on 1st remote

Security light will click and then go out

 Turn key to off position and then back to on

 Security light at left of instruments will come on steady and after few

seconds start to blink

 Push rear hatch button on 2nd remote

Security light will click and then go out

 Turn key to off position

Have helper release button on controller 

turning off chirp

close all doors and rear window/hatch except drivers door

turn key from off to on 5 times in less than 10 seconds.

close the door and turn key off = chirp on

close, then re-open the door = chirp off

disabling alarm

everything closed, including rear window/hatch

turn key from off to on 5 times in less than 10 seconds

the car will chirp and flash the lights once

open and close drivers door:::

once = on

twice = off

four times = valet mode = alarm off, panic mode on

the car will click/chirp once or twice to verify


42.  How TOD (TORQUE-ON-DEMAND) works?


43.  How do I check the fluid level on my Tranny?

On the 1998-2004 (except Direct inject engines) the transmission is a sealed unit and doesn't have a dipstick.  To check it the truck should be warmed up but not excessively hot.  With the e-brake on an the wheels blocked, start the engine, place your shifter in neutral, remove the upper fill plug on the transmission and the fluid should just dribble out.

More tranny info

Post 1:
There are 2 nuts on the bottom of the tranny pan. The lower one is the drain. The one at the back of the pan in a recess is the filler. You need a hand pump or something similar to fill it to overflowing, then top it off with the engine running. Make sure you shift through the gears a couple of times when topping off.

Post 2:
You'll find two hex head plugs facing downward on the main/big tranny pan. The drain plug is the lower of the two that can be easily seen. The fill/level check plug is not so obvious. It's in the rear, right corner of the main pan, at the top of a semi-circle recess stamped deep into the pan. Both plugs are identical is size & dimension. As with any auto tranny, you have to check ATF level on a level surface, with the vehicle running & fully warmed up. ATF should just dribble out of the fill hole- indicating adequate level. If you check it with the truck off, ATF will POUR out of the hole since much of the ATF drains to the pan when the engine is off. You have to use a pump to get new ATF up & into the tranny.


44.  What the heck is Direct Injection?


Currently, only two gasoline automobiles sold in the U.S. have direct injection for their engines
 — the BMW 760Li and the Rolls Royce Phantom. Next year, Isuzu will debut a 3.5-liter V6 with 
this state-of-the-art fuel delivery system.
Direct injection (DI) is just that; fuel is sprayed directly into the cylinder, as opposed to normal 
fuel injection that sprays the gasoline inside the intake port. Direct injection is done at very high 
pressure, which promotes more complete combustion, and the more precise metering also lowers both emissions 
and fuel consumption.


45.  I'm sporadically losing power, what can it be?

First if you have a CEL, find out what the code is (Autozone will read it for free).  The next reason could be due to a bad battery (Factory batteries are usually good for about 3-4 years) and/or an alternator that is on the way out.  If the battery is not properly charged or if the alt is not putting out enough  or to much current, the ECU will do some pretty funky things (rough running engine and tranny that shifts hard or feels like it is slipping).  Also, if you recently replaced your plugs on your 2000-2004 with any other plugs then Denso K16PR-P11 it may cause the ECU to toss a code and may not run very well (keep in mind that some 2000 came with Champion plugs from the factory, but they may cause the engine to knock).  The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code (misfire code: P1340).


46.  How do I replace the bulbs in my tailights?

Rodeo/Amigo: There are 2 screws on the side and one under (between light and bumper) Light should then pull out to where you
 can unplug your connection
47. How to change the Rear diffy Fluid:
Step by Step For Rodeo and Amigo:

1. Loosen the fill bolt (so it is easier to remove while the diffy cover is off) with a socket extension on your 
socket driver.

2. Loosen/ remove the track bar left hand side (I remove the nut from the leftside).

3. Place the pan below the diffy, loosen all the bolts, and smack it a couple of times with a rubber mallet. Let 
the oil start to drain a bit. (If you remove all the bolts at once you could end up taking an oil bath once your
 smack it with the rubber hammer).

4. Continue to loosen the bolts and drain the oil.

5. Once you have most of the oil out remove the cover. Clean the mating surfaces with a putty knife (if this is 
your first time since the truck was new you will find they used gasket maker stuff).

6. Replace the gasket with a paper gasket (if you want to use the make a gasket stuff that is fine but it will be 
a mess the next time it comes to change) Fel-Pro # RDS 6629 (7 bucks for the paper gasket at most autoparts stores
). The benefit of the paper gasket is the next time you change it it will just pop right off and no or little 
putty knife work is need. If you dab a little axle grease on the diffy housing it will help to keep the gasket
 in place.

5. Replace the cover, tighten it down (use a crossing pattern while tightening).

6. Fill with diffy fluid (note if you need oil with limited slip additive), a cheap 5buck hand pump will help to
 keep you clean (the hand pump screws onto the top of the oil bottle) and you can use it again and again over the

7. Tighten up the track bar and replace the fill bolt and your ready to roll!
48.  My factory 6 disk CD player died (ERR3) what can I do?
Don't feel bad, Isuzu's 6 disk cd changes are notorious for dieing after a couple of year.  If you are out of your warranty, you can either
 ditch the 6disk and radio and purchase a new CD player (maybe one that plays MP3's?), which will be more powerful and will 
sound better.  Or you can try out the following with your paper weight of a CD Player:
From my most excellent dealer, Tom Benson Isuzu
CD Changer codes and descriptions
Err 1 - loaded disc is dirty or improperly inserted
Err 2 - no CD inside the CD changer
Err 3 - CD changer problem, cannot play
Err 4 - over current, cannot play
WAIT - high temperature, cannot play
Err 3 - How to reset:
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Depress the eject button 50 times, turn the key on and depress the brake, 
turn the key off and reconnect the battery cable. The lights on the CD changer will flash orange-green. As soon
 as this stops, depress the Eject button. This may release (eject) the CDs.
or try this:
My CD Changer decided to keep all six of my CDs hostage and than gave me a rude "Err3". I read a post on here a 
while back that says a fix is to whack it on the side immediately after hitting eject.
I'm not one to hit things like that, but in a moment of weakness - I did it.
Out they all came, and it works great now. I have tempted fate by putting them back.
or try this
Ok here's is what I do, make a fist and hit the side of the CD player just after hitting the eject button. I
 would usually whack it with the side of the fist about 3 times and it should spit out the CD in question. I've
 done this with my Amigo and the VX.
if that doesn't work try this
Take the CD player out of the dash. Carefully take the screws out of the lid. Once the lid is open and you can 
see the mechanics of the CD player, locate the little blue eye in the area where the CD fits. It should be all 
the way in next to the spindle. 

Now, go in the house and get a bottle of non-ammonia windex, mix a few squirts of that and a few drops of rubbing
 alcohol into a cup. Now you have "Professional" lens cleaner! 

Get a Q-tip, B-tip, or whatever cotton swab your family uses. Dip the swab into the Windex/Alcohol mixture and
 then wring the excess liquid off with your fingers. Just pinch the tip and squeeze all of the excess out. (You
 don't want enough on the swab to drip and run down the side of the eye.) lightly twist the tip of the swab on 
the eye (like you would if you were screwing it into your ear). Do not press hard as you can knock it out of
 alignment. It will feel springy... that is ok, just don't bear down on it. 

Now flip the swab over to the dry side and dry the eye using the same motion you used to clean it. 

Put the lid back on, reinstall, and enjoy your tunes! 
Or if you just have to have that 6 disk changer buy one from ebay or  or 
Send your changer to these guys and they will fix it for 250.00
49.  I would like to add a high flow air filter, which one?
Be careful not to over oil your filter or oil may have carried over to the mass airflow sensor (MAF) just
 downstream of the air filter box. A fouled MAF will cause the concerns you describe & does not always 
light up the check engine light. Pull out the MAF & CAREFULLY clean it with cotton swabs & electrical 
contact cleaner.
You have a couple of options.  You can remove your air box and add a Calimini or K&N cone air filter:
The problem with the the cone is that they will suck lots of hot dirty air from the engine bay.  Many have noted 
that they have seen a decrease in MPG (more air in = more gas)
Cone air filter definitely makes the engine breathe better but more air in will mean more fuel to some degree but
 not to the extent that it will cause ANY problem. The computer and O2 sensors take care of adjusting the mix. 
There is a little bit of a torque loss with the cone filter due to the extra hot air ingested but a simple airbox
 ‘wall’ can be created to negate that. 
If you do change your filter (to high flow or OEM) make sure you reset the ECU, by disconnecting the battery for
 15 minutes.  The ECU will then relearn the new components that were added to give you the best MPG.
How to remove the air box:
there are 3 bolts to remove.2 inside the box and one on the outside (between the engine and the filter box). The
 one on the outside has a nut to remove and a stud to remove. Once you remove the bolts, the lower half of the 
filter box will come out. Look on the inside of the elbow and remove the s shaped thing by pushing down on it. Now 
you can remove the elbow. I had to use a screw driver to pry it out.
More Notes on hot air:
The outside air temp was 97, temp gauge only goes up to 160
Location filter box- 
10mph: 155
30mph: 112
60mph: 107

Location intake man- 
10mph: 160+
30mph: 160+
60mph: 150
Still want to use an unshielded cone filter?
If you do you should make your own heat shield
You can install a drop in panel filter:
Drop in K&N helps a bit but again the biggest restriction is the elbow through the fender - remove that before 
you invest in a drop in (pull the stock airbox and you will see the black plastic elbow). 
If you take the air box off to work on the elbow you will see that the elbow will actually come off without 
cutting! It takes a little shimmying to get the sucker off, but it WILL come off without any cutting.
Here's what Dave Chang did:
I cut open the air passage on the stock airbox and used a propane torch to seal the cut seams. Then I used a
3" PVC attached to a rubber coupling joint inserted into the hole in the fender to force the airbox to breathe
 air outside the engine bay. Running the K&N panel filter for stock airbox.
50.  I want to replace my rubber bushings with poly ones, where can I buy some?
Contact the guys in the below link to see if they can help (let me know if they can help because I do not know if they can):
Sway bar (Rodeo) bushings:  Energy Suspension # 9.5161 (greasable) and 9.5129 (non-greasable) 
I got them from JEG'S for $13.99 w/free shipping... but they charge a $9.99 handling fee 
Link to independent4x  Contact Matt, he has poly products, and see if he has what you need for your Isuzu!
51.  What does the Power and Winter buttons do?
Power button does.
He checked with Isuzu engineers (so he told me): It does not increase power. It does not change timing. It does
 not affect the engine in any way. It does remap the auto transmission shift-up and shift-down points (but that
 doesn't count as changing "gearing" -- all the ratios remain the same, you'll just see shift points move to 
different rpms).
On the Power Drive, it delays upshifts and downshifts, essentially holds gears longer before shifting. It also 
increases the line pressure in the transmission. Increasing line pressure provides greater clamping ability of
 the clutch packs and converter clutch when applied. This mode is for towing or hauling. Constantly shifting under
 load and towing/hauling generates more heat as the friction materials slip as they engage under load. This mode
 helps to reduce the amount of heat generated which keeps the fluid alive and increases the life of the transmission.

"Winter" simply starts the vehicle in third gear. It's intended for very slick conditions. 
52.  Possible ways to help sensitive ABS brakes
The number 1 thing to do is replace your shocks. It has made a huge difference.

How to fix that over-sensitive system by Jeff Rouse:

My brakes sucked. A crack in the road would set the ABS off. I did a few things and it works way better now. After I took my Amigo back to the dealer ("everything checks out within manufacturers specs" ) for difficulty stopping twice, I bled the brakes. This made a HUGE difference. Cost: $0

Then I had some Earl's Plumbing steel braded brake lines custom made (I added 2" in front and 4" in back for future mods) and replaced all five stock rubber lines. HUGE, HUGE improvement. $150

Then I lifted my truck 3" and put rancho 9000's on. I don't know why but this helped quite a bit too. Maybe from it not getting jarred so hard when I'd hit a bump. Beats me, it helped a lot. $400 CP style lift.

I put 265/75/16 Futura Dakata's all around. Good improvement. $510 for five tires - mounted, etc

Next I changed brake pads all around. Axxis metal master. Some improvement. $70 *note, non-OEM pads have a tendency to squeal with used with OEM rotors.

Finally, I swapped the front rotors for Powerstop cross-drilled rotors. (I tow a lot, slotted are better for most people). I left the rear stock - for now. Great improvement in stopping, some improvement in ABS. $230 for the pair.

At first I thought my ABS didn't work anymore, because it didn't' come on for at least six months. Then when driving in the snow I jammed the brakes on one day and... it was still there working like ABS should. Since then it has only come on a few times, and only under extreme braking on bumpy surfaces.

53.  How Performance Chips work?
54.  How to Turn the ABS light off?
The owners manual states stop the car immediately. Shut it off, start it up again and for about 
quarter to half mile do not exceed 8 mph, go slow and the light will shut off. If the light comes back on, 
repeat the same. If it does not go off or it returns, have it serviced.
55.  Rodeo or Amigo Dash rattle sound?
It was the part where the bolt comes through the front of the dash right next to the windshield between
 the defrost vents. It's hidden by a removable plastic cover that you can easily pry off with a small 
screwdriver. I just removed the nut and inserted a washer that's rubber on one side and metal on the 
other and tightened it down snugly. I can finally drive my truck without having to feel around the dash 
to pinpoint the rattle.
It could also be worn hood hinges:
56.  Where in the antifreeze drain plug on the block?
For my car '99 Passport 3.2 V6 4WD, the plug was 27mm and located directly above 
the starter and accessible with a regular 6 point socket a 20" 1/2 drive 
extension and a long breaker bar.

All the coolant poured right out, with the front end of the car on stands.
57.  Transmission leaking possibilities?
its leaking from from right above the small pan on the passenger side from a large metal 
circle with a rubber gasket inside
The leak itself is coming from a circular object which is inserted into the side of the
 transmission about midway back on the right side. The object (is this a plug?) is about 1.5"
 in diameter and is held in place by an internal C ring. Looks like it has a bad O-ring or something.
Link to a write up
the accumulator piston cover/gasket. This is a common issue with IIRC- 1996-2000 4L30E's. 
Isuzu put out a TSB in regards
58.  Transmission filter replacement and partial fluid swap?
Link to writeup
Link to Photo of the transmission filter (it is like a sponge)

So we get down there, look at it and determine what to do. * Support drivetrain on the t-case skid plate with jack. * Unbolt twisted, bent t-case/tranny crossmember. * Remove brake/fuel line heat shield protecting said lines from the crossmember. * Unbolt tranny support from crossmember and move crossmember out of the way. * Remove tranny support from the tranny. * Drain flid from tranny pan (2 plugs, one low, one high[allen head]). * Once fluid has drained, unbolt the pan from the tranny and set aside. * Unbolt filter from the tranny and discard. * Remove gasket material left on the tranny and pan. * Clean gasket mounting etc with a solvent on tranny and pan. * Remove magnet from bottom of pan and clean all metal dust remnants from magnet, and wipe out pan after all fluid has been drained.

[rant on]Since some BRAINIAC at GM/Isuzu designed the 4L30E WITHOUT a dipstick or any other way to fill the fluid, you get to take a bath in Mercron, no two ways around it... :mad: Remember the allen head plug I referenced, well that is the overflow aka FILL plug too!!! So, since the overflow hole parallel to the ground, how do you suppose you place fluid vertically into a pan that holds the fluid, maybe 3" below that hole? WTF, some people shouldn't live, or breed as the case might be.[/rant]

* Install new filter on the tranny, round hole down. * Fill up the pan with 6-7 pints of fluid (nearly to the overflow line. * With two people, lift up full pan to the tranny, and stick 2 bolts in opposing corner with each person (all 4 corners are bolted) * Complete the installation of the tranny pan, and reverse process for the crossmember, support, and jack.

What did the filter look like after 85K and yearly flushes on a 99?

It was full of contaminants... metal sludge (akin to a aluminum paste).
No chunks of metal, just sludge, again with the paste... thick and gooey, like aluminum colored mud.

59.  faulty transmission range sensor
link to a full write up with high res photos

I've had a problem with hard shifting on-and-off for over a year. It usually happens only in the morning, and is always after the dash light fails to indicate that the truck is in drive. I had the codes read at a dealer last June, and got back a P0705 code. Is this the range sensor malfunction? If so, any recommendations on what needs to be done and where to get it looked at?

I had the same problem with my 99 Passport. I was able to remove my range sensor, take it apart and clean the contacts inside. I remember it was quite dirty and greasy inside. I think they used too much dielectric grease in it, but the contacts were definitely dirty so I cleaned them reassembled it and I have never had the problem come back. The unit is located on the side of the transmission (drivers side) just forward of center. It's been well over a year since I fixed it, but if I remember right to remove it there was a small metal shield that pops off. Then I had to remove 2 bolts and 1 nut that holds the shifter arm and unplug the wire harness (the wire harness was a little difficult to unplug due to the tight space) and the unit will just slide right out. You will need a torx driver to take apart the unit. I wiped most of the grease out of mine; I left some of the grease there so things will slide properly and to keep moisture out. Depending on how dirty the contacts are you can clean them with a pencil eraser or a very, very fine sand paper. Don't spend the 90+ dollars for a new one this is a fairly easy fix, once you see the inside you won't think it's worth the price tag! It should take you about 45-60 min to repair.


60.  Intermittent wiper function has failed

Link to a writeup with photos

Intermittent wiper function has failed, (it begins to sweep, and stops about 1/4 of the way through the cycle, AND wipers stop in position when turned off. (they do not return to a home position).

It stops working due to a bad relay chip on a circuit board (I have this same problem- Ryan).  You can replace the whole board for 200 bucks or you can replace the one chip (no clue as to who to buy it from).  Here are a couple of write ups and picture of the board:

You can buy the bad chip here:

I bought mine from Mouser Electronics Phone 800-346-6873 for $5.10 each. Apparently they stock the original Fujitsu ones now.

Part number 817-FTR-P1CN012N.

The faulty part was the alarm control unit. It controls the front and rear wipers as well as part of the alarm system.

The part was number is 8-97240-466-0 its made by Denso for Isuzu.
Cost $ 210.11 from Austin Isuzu. Kind of expensive, but I did save on their labor charges.

It is located behind the dash under the right hand vent. To access it you should remove the glove box (1 screw on each hinge) There is another black control unit below the light grey (or green) box you are replacing. This black box is held in by 2 screws. I removed this box (also part of the alarm) There was no need to disconnect the wire going to it (Black box), there was plenty of slack.

Remove the one screw securing the alarm control unit and slide the unit down and out. there are two clip in plugs that connect it to the wiring harness. Plug these into the new part and test your wipers before completing the installation. Be careful not to drop any of the screws you remove, because if you have to pull the kick panel off, it can be tough getting the grommet back together through the hole in the carpet.

I have pictures to show the placement of the part, but once you have the new part in your hand and the glove box off, it is pretty easy to spot looking up and to the right of the vehicle from the passenger side footwell.

I had trouble removing the two screws that mounted the black box below
the alarm box.  One of them was stuck tight.  I was able to remove the
black box from the metal bracket by releasing three clips; two on the
driver's side and one on the aft side.  After that it was fairly simple
to get the alarm box out.

A plunger style solder sucker was essential to removing the old relay
from the alarm board.



There have been quite a few posts on fixing the rear wiper and the intermittent wipers by replacing the relay on the alarm module just inside the dash beside the glove box.


61.  Electrical problems

Couple of steps. 1. Clean the battery posts 2. clean the ground points to the body 3. Check The Ground At The Alternator Bracket

4. Have the battery load tested. 5. have the alt checked out

"I have A 2000 Isuzu Rodeo Automatic And Every So Often I Put My Truck In The Park Gear It Shuts Off "

Possible solution:  "break in one or more wires drivers side of vehicle in the engine harness open the harness between the intake and PCM find the two red/white wires pull on them one at a time give it a good tug one or both of them should break if not tug on every one one at a time until you find the bad wire they tend to break inside of the insulation makes it a real PIA to find let me know what you find "

Issues with aftermarket alternator:

One more link on a possible electrical problems


Thanks... I searched and found a used alternator ($40 buck) plus $75.00 in labor to get it put on over the weekend. The flickering is gone for good I hope . Took the old one back to Oreilly's for a refund totaling $115.00. So i broke even there, I also am waiting to hear back form the district manager regarding my labor charge, he reimburst me the last time I took the first one that they sold me off. I spoke with the office manager this morning he said the alt. tested good so he could not approve the labor charge, but he will talk with the district manager when he stops by today. I told him that it may be testing good, but it's not good my truck. The voltage on my truck was eating that alt. alive....

62.  Engine Stalling Problem (OBDII P Code P0101)

"My wife said that her 1999 Trooper stalled on the highway while moving slowly in traffic. She started it back up and it stalled again while coming to a stop sign. Same thing, started right back up. This has happened about 6 times over the last 24 hours. I took it to AutoZone for a free OBD check hoping that a fault code might have been stored. Sure enough, it returned a P0101. "

"This is just a follow up. I replaced the mass air flow sensor and the problem has gone away. I purchased the part online

Bought it here

Hopefully this info will help someone else out. Even though I'm not an active user, this is great forum to research.


63.  Opinions on Sea Foam

There is a ton of opinions on Sea Foam.  Many Isuzu owners like to use it a couple times a year to help clean up the piston rings.   But when the heck do you use it?  I personally use it 20 minutes before I change my oil (dump in 1/2 bottle take a 20 minute drive, drain oil asap).  PLEASE keep in-mind if you have a high mileage engine there is a remote possibility that the sea foam will loosen up a ton of crud that will plug some of the small oil pathways.  Please use it at your own risk.

Some more opinions:
Found the "SEA FOAM" info on this site. I had all but given up on the oil consumption problem on my 2000 Trooper 3.5. Dumped a bottle of the product in my crank case. Drove 100 miles and did my usual synthetic oil change with 10W 30. The oil when drained with the SEA FOAM additive looked and had the consistency of black gasoline. Four hundred miles later and the oil level has not dropped. By now I would be down 1/2 Qt. The Trooper runs smoother, quieter, and seems to have more power. I will follow up with more info at the 800 mile mark. I am impressed.  Regards, Jethro  
64.  power steering pump flush.

Well, it isn't a flush, more of a replace about a 1/3 of the fluid.

1. consult your manual for the right type of fluid to use (+98 Isuzu use
tranny fluid, but still look at your manual)
2. Note the fluid level or bust out your sharpie and mark the level. 
Pull the lower hose from the power steering reservoir.  Put something
under it to catch the old fluid.  
3. Filler back up.
4. Jack up the front of the truck so both of the wheels are off the
ground (there is a spot on the front skid plate to do this on the Rodeo).
6. Start her up.  Then move the steering wheel from bump stop to bump
stop like 4 times.  This will help to get the air out.  Top off the fluid
if necessary (I have never had to do it).  Now if you want to you can at
this point take if for a 5 minute spin to mix up the fluid and then drain
it again and fill it again; in order to get a higher percentage of new
fluid into the system.
7. Clean up, your done.
I do this once a year.  I figure a little clean fluid to the system every
year will help towards a long life and will help to lower the amount of
water that could be in the system.  Total time: 15-20 minutes.  Cost: 2-3
bucks for the fluid (I recommend you toss the left over tranny fluid in
the bottle (I know it is a waste) since after you open it, it can pick up
water sitting on the shelf.
65.  Tips for removing the Alternator
take your passenger side wheel off, and take the small inner rubber liner out this will make getting to the alternator much easier. 
This was done on a truck with a 3" body lift.
66.  How to replace the headlight bulb
Look under the hood, press the tabs to pull out the connectors. Then you'll see a Plastic ring that holds the bulb in place. 
All you do is unscrew it and the bulb comes right out. 
67.  How to flush the radiator
1. Remove the radiator cap.
2. Loosen the drain cog/wing thing on the lower drivers side of the radiator.
3. Catch the fluid.
4. Dump in a bottle of flush stuff, then top of with your garden hose (or DI water).
5. Follow the directions on the flush bottle, which is something like run the truck for 15 minutes, with the heater on high blowing, 
turn off, drain and do it 2 more times.
6. Pull the reserve tank and empty that. The last time I did this I cleaned out the inside with a rag and soapy water 
since there was some black gunky build up in it.
7. reinstall tank.
8. Top off radiator with a 50-50 mix (mix with DI water). Add to reserve tank. Drive it a couple days then check your 
reserve tank and test your antifreeze concentration.

I do mine yearly. If you take it to a shop they will hook it up to a machine to flush out the entire system, but I 
think my yearly flush will work fine too. 

68.  Problems with Drive by wire

When the DBW first started going, It would idle high as if the gas pedal was pressed down slightly, it started idling high that when in gear it was hard to keep it stopped. The the check engine light came on and started flashing on and off, not like a misfire, slower than that. Then the Reduced Power light came on. It had very little acceleration with a delay from when it was stopped till it started moving. acceleration was similar to the WINTER mode but through all gears. The dealership had to replace the throttle body ($600), throttle body gasket ($7) and the pedal sensor ($150) and like $300 in labor. I did manually actuate the throttle one time so that could have been related. I took the old throttle body apart and everything looked alright, but there was a lot of gears and sensors in it.


69.  4wd always on or doesn't work

Check your electric shift on the fly actuator. It's mounted on the drivers' side front axle tube. It's common for them to hold moisture & corrode or freeze up.

They key to 4wd is to use it at least once a month.  Turn it on, drive 50 feet turn it off.  This will help to keep the SOTF (shift on the fly) stuff lubed up.


Thanks to those of you who responded to my query about my 99 Trooper which wouldn't go into 4WD while the engine was running, but would occasionally come up in 4WD if the SOTF button was pushed before starting the truck. I'm going to go through how we found the problem because sure as heck someone else is going to run into this problem someday. The hints as to the existence of the SOTF vacuum switch mechanism and attendant website URLs proved invaluable. A friend with vast experience trouble-shooting such problems and I used his MightyVac to isolate the problem in one of the two vacuum switches on the SOTF assembly on the front axle. In short, the switch was not pulling enough air to coax the system into 4WD. We carefully tried to bring the switch back to spec (after pulling the assembly off the truck.) This requires first removing a small shield (Two 14mm bolts.) You then can use a 10mm socket to remove the plate holding the two vacuum switches (looks just like top picture in URL mentioned on PlanetIsuzu.) It took a while to trace the hoses attached to understand the logic of how the SOTF system works. We pulled the suspect switch off the plate (Phillips screw at back of plate.) Using the MightyVac and a couple wires, we used the truck's battery to actuate the solenoid with vacuum on it to see if it passed air properly. When it didn't we knew we were close to the bad part. Another check on that theory was to start the truck and use the MightyVac (a hand-held unit with a gauge on it and a handle that you squeeze to pull air out of hoses, bleed brake systems, etc. Gotta get one!) to put a vacuum on the hose that leads from the the suspect vacuum switch to the diaphram on the axle. Instant 4WD! Dealers being closed on Saturday, we tried a NAPA and another local auto store but no luck on the Denso part. Part #8-97101858-1 is what I read on the part. There's another number I took to be a manufacturer's number: 08480U-2201. It was bit smudgy but those are close. It took some judicious use of very small wire and eventually a good hosing with carb cleaner, but we got the part's logic to work with the good ol' MightyVac and the actuation of the switch via truck battery. Its resistance also measured at the noted 42 ohms (by, so we knew that it was ok electrically. We put it all back together and my TOD switch now works like a champ, every time. Of course, my dealer said this would be a $600 repair requiring replacement of the ECU, so you know I'm glad that with my friend Nick's help, we sorted this in a few hours in my driveway. The moral to this story, btw, is to exercise that TOD switch frequently to keep those solenoids from getting cruddy. I tend to only use 4WD when I 'need' it and thus it was the 4WD solenoid that crudded up on me.


70.  Replacing the belt idler pulley

If you hear a squeaking sound at startup when it is below freezing outside, that lasts for 1-3 minutes your idler pulley on the S-belt could be on its way out.  If it seizes it will shread the belt or worst case it will rip itself out of the block taking part of the block with it.

Well I was the typical moron...allowing a noticeable squeal/grinding sound exist for too long before I check it out. It was the drive belt ilder pulley right at the top of the block. The bearing had started to go out...then it totally disintegrated. When this happen the drive belt slipped off and luckily stayed in the engine compartment until I could stop.

The repair was much simpler than I had thought. Basically I went and bought a new idler pulley for the ribbed drive belt from Napa (~$14 or so). When you remove the old pulley be sure to retain the small bushing that fits between the pulley and the block mount. I had first not found this bushing because it had almost welded itself to the inner race of the destroyed bearing. It was easy to pop out and I had the new pulley in place ease.

Then the tough thing was figuring out how the dang serpentine drive belt snakes through the various components. I checked the Gates web site and they had a diagram that at first doesn't appear to correspond to the Rodeo, but it actually does...just a bit out of scale.

My last hurdle was moving the tensioner so that I could get the belt on everything. Two tricks..1) use a socket wrench on the 14mm nut in the center of the tensioner pulley and both try to tighten it more while at the same time pushing str8 down on the wrench. This moved the tensioner down easily and 2) put the belt onto the tensioner pulley last (since it doesn't have an edge it will slip on quick).

71. Sunroof fixes:

I have a power sunroof on a 2000 Rodeo that is not closing completely. It appears that one side is about 1/4 inch tweaked backward, so it doesn't clear the back corner. I'm getting a lot of whistling at speeds over 35mph and I'm very concerned with leaking.

Well I finally solved my problems. It appears that a TORX screw which holds a guide, had losend and caused the upper arm of the sunroof to come out of track. I have circled the part that was lose in red in the first photo (the torx screw, not the phillips screw--both are found in the circle). When you press the sunroof switch to go back, the piece in the red circle should go down into the small gap (blue circle) and slide back. If it does not, you should check that your tracks are properly aligned. In the second photo observe the brown circle with the line...this is where it should be when the sunroof is in the "closed" position. If it's not, there is an adjustment (green circle, first photo) you can press down on and slide the upper arm to the correct position. Now check to see if the guide properly goes into the correct gap as you "open" the sunroof. IF IT DOES NOT, DO NOT LET IT CONTINUE TO OPEN TO THE FULL POSITION OR YOU WILL HAVE TO RE-ADJUST THE UPPER ARM AGAIN. So make sure your upper arm is in the correct position, then losen the torx screw (in red circle) and adjust the guide so it will fall into the gap when the sunroof is opened. Then tighten the screw firmly. Test by opening and closing. Note that as you are testing the tracks without the sunroof, they may come out of their guides again. This is because the sunroof helps keep the upper arms in the correct position. Once your sure you have everything in place, set the sunroof to the "closed" position not moonroof. And put the glass back in place. Do not force it! If it doesn't seem to be going down into place, you may need to get inside your vehicle and gently push outward on the track arms. Lightly screw the glass screws back into place. Adjust the flush-ness and then tighten the screws completely.

Photo 1   Photo 2

72.  Windshield tank fluid leaks:

These typically leak from the fill neck.

the neck will break if you push down on the cap, while putting it on.

 SB00-04-S002   APR 00       Windshield Washer Tank - Leaks Fluid 

73.  Heater Problems:

Hot air become cold when stopping.

1. Thoroughly flush the cooling system.

2. Replace the thermostat (if neccessary)

3. Replace Radiator.

link to a post

anyway my V6 rodeo keeps boiling over and/or runs hot. there is no coolant leaking at all and I flushed the radiator and removed the thermostat. the coolant was nice and green when I drained the radiator and it flushed nicely. it looks as though there is coolant flow when i take off the cap. does this water pump have a weep hole that indicates a failure? as I said, no leakage. I was thinking that maybe the flow i saw was just hot water expanding and displacing cooler water??
seems like a ghost in the machine. all mechanics out here are criminals, so I'd like to fix 'er myself. any thoughts? any tips on pulling off that water pump? looks tricky.

so after flushing out the entire cooling system and putting in a new t-stat I'm still having this same issue...the engine temp gets hot when at idle or at a stoplight and yet the heat turns ice cold till the truck gets moving again

I had this problem with my '96 Passport - it would run cool most of the time, but then if I went up a hill, or ran on the highway it would overheat. If yours does this then the problem is capacity - that means your radiator is clogged, probably by hard deposits that can't be flushed. I tried flushing mine in both directions with heavy duty flush and it didn't do a thing. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, and all hoses. Still overheated. Then I replaced the radiator, and that solved the problem. At least now everything is new...

75.  Problem with turn Directional

Okay, so I'm driving home last night, and I went to make a left turn, and the directional started flashing, and then it just went on steady. It only does it when the parking lights or headlights are on. but when the lights are off, and I put the left directional on, the gear selector light (in between the tach and speedo) flashes dim and bright with the flasher. Its the left directional only, the right is fine. Anyone have any ideas? Do these have a normal flasher? Or is it like a module? Sorry, its on a 2001 Honda Passport EX-L 4x4. Any help/insight will be greatly appreciated. I really don't want to drive back out to school with it like that.

Do you have trailer wiring attached? In my experience, the number one cause for weird directional problems is a short in the trailer wiring (usually just all gummed up with something and making a connection it shouldn't be). If you have a trailer harness in the back, unplug it and see what happens...


76.  BRAKE light on

 I have recently been experiencing an issue on my 2000 Honda Passport, and I was hoping someone here may be able to provide some assistance.

The Brake warning indicator has recently been coming on. The indicator is not on all the time, but seems to be illuminated when the outside temperature is low. For example, in the mornings when I leave for work and it is cool outside the light is usually on, but goes off after 10 - 15 miles. On the drive home from work when it is warmer, the the light does not normally come on. I'm not sure if this has just been a coincidence up to this point, but it has been fairly consistent.

this is a classic low on brake fluid issue. I have had many types of foreign cars that did this. Usually doesn't mean that the brake fluid is low, it is, but the brake pads are in need of replacement. The piston is out more because of low pad depth, thus more fluid is in the lines and the piston chamber. this has robbed your brake fluid canister of fluid close to the low sensor point.

77.  Key stuck in ignition

My key is stuck in the ignition. The car turns on, i just cannot pull out the key. I've had to park my car at work with key still stuck in the ignition until I can get this matter resolved.

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. Don't know what the cause was but she came in from work one day this week and she felt it go into the lock position and the key came out. Guess this is a bit of luck but since I didn't get to try any of your suggestions while it was still messed up I am still at at a loss and will wait for the next round

Link with photos

One other possibility submitted via email:  This is on my 2001 Rodeo. Remove the plastic cover which is just under the ignition switch, seems like I also had to remove the bolts that hold the steering column in place so I could lower the whole assembly as well. All I remember is that there was a screw that had loosened and fell out of a part that is connected to the ignition switch.

78.  Clunking under Feet

Am having a similar clunking under my feet when cornering over light bumps at the moment. Been going crazy trying to nail it for weeks. But nailed it yesterday. Turned out to be a body mount. Took the bolt and rubber block out and the clunk has gone. Going to replace it soon. Didn't show any wear, but must have so that there was a little slap when the chassis flexed.

It could also be your sway bar rubbing against your shock while turning.

79.  Isuzu Engine Rebuild Kits:

80.  Firing Order

5 6
3 4
1 2
Front Is the order.

81.  How to check for a redesigned 3.5L?

I own a 2002 Trooper with 20K miles on it. I run 5W30 Mobil1 and change oil/filter every 3K miles. Depending upon my driving habits during the 3K miles, I will consume anywhere between 3/4 and 1 Quart of Mobil 1. Admittedly, that isn't horrible, but it isn't "perfect" either. My question is: Is there a way for me to confirm if my specific engine has the new piston redesign? Is it possible for me to take the engine serial number and determine this with Isuzu?

yes just check the pcv valve it should be a screw in style, instead of the push in , type if so, you no doubt have the new eng

82.  Location of O2 sensors (oxygen)

Standing at the front of the vehicle and staring at the engine. The closest cylinder on the passenger side is #1. Still on the passenger side the middle one is #3 and the back one is #5. On the driver's side the front to back numbering is 2,4 and 6.

For the oxygen sensors on an AT vehicle (i.e. two cats) the one before the cat on the passenger side is Bank1/Sensor1. The one after the cat on the passenger side is Bank1/Sensor2. On the drivers side, the one before the cat is Bank2/Sensor1 and the one after is Bank2/Sensor2.

For the oxygen sensors on a manual transmission (i.e. one cat), the first one on the exhaust of the passenger side is Bank1/Sensor1. The first one on the drivers side exhaust is Bank2/Sensor1. After the two pipes join and before the cat is Bank1/Sensor2. The one after the cat is Bank1/Sensor3.

Link to drawing

I have a 1999 Trooper I bought used and had it probably for 1 month and the CEL came on and I bought an OBD II scanner and the codes were PO101, PO137, PO157, PO1171.  The scanner told me that the PO137 and PO157 were the 2 rear O2 sensors (Bank1 sensor 2) and (Bank 2 sensor 2) were reading a low voltage.  So I started with the PO101 code ,which by reading some of your faq page that it was probably the MAF ( Mass Air Flow Sensor).  I removed MAF from the intake and air filter duct assembly and cleaned it with carb cleaner thoroughly and then cleaned the intake port with a small wire brush and carb cleaner and replaced the air filter even though it looked good while I had the air duct apart just for good measure.  I drove the vehicle and the PO101 code never reappeared but the PO137, PO157 and P1171 codes still came back with the constant CEL.  So I knew from the OBD scanner that the O2 sensors werent bad they were just reading a low voltage.  So I read on the faq page or or another forum that the gas cap sometimes causes the engine to more or less vapor lock if  it was on too tight.  I ran a can of injector cleaner and with a full tank of gas and left the fuel cap loose.  I drove for 80 mile that day and the CEL never came back on at all since then.  A truck load of worries mainly because of a gas cap!


83.  Automatic Gear Selector Lock won't release

Work the button with your finger while you look/listen/feel for a *clicking* under the steering column. There is a cable that runs from the button, to the steering column/ignition area. If the cable binds up on anything (fairly common), it wont have full range of motion to open the safety interlock. Wiggling, re-positioning the cable should fix it. Sometimes moving the steering wheel while you push the trigger helps too.

I did find the following procedure in the Owners Manual that describes what to do for this problem.

The listed sequence is:
1. fully apply the parking brake
2. turn the key switch to the “ACC” position
3. move the shift lever from the “P” to the “N” position, depress the brake pedal, and start the engine again.
4. operate the shift lever.
Have the transmission checked by your Isuzu Dealer as soon as possible.


84.  I need a new Exhaust (muffler; catback):

The second is a catback system:

            Calmini (seems like a lot of money for a couple of pipes and a cheep looking muffler)

            Borla use to make one for the Rodeo, so you might be able search or make some calls to see if anyone still has it on the shelf


85.  Location of the PCV:

Facing the engine, it's threaded/inserted into the right side valve cover. It's got about a 3/8" rubber (vac) line attached. You may need to pull off the black plastic intake cover first. Another very easy to service item.


86.  steering shaking

I've had a problem with my steering shaking from 60mph to about 68mph for years now. I had all of my tires balanced, no luck. Repacked my bearings at 30,000 miles and no luck. Bought new tires, had them balanced and an alignment, no luck. Had the dealer repack my bearings, no luck. I repacked the bearings one more time (100k miles) and cranked down on them a little more than normal and it still shook. I had come to wits end and was about to have the dealer completely go over the front end and replace whatever they thought was causing it (we all know dealers too $$$$) when I decided to search this board once more. I came across a post that mentioned the Hunter GSP9700 and Road Force balancing. I checked it out and found a Ford dealer (better than nothing) that was right down the road. I made an appointment.

First off, I was amazed at how nice the Ford dealers service guys were (Rolling Hills Ford, Clermont, FL) with me and my Isuzu. So I left my truck and went and ran some errands. When I came back, the service guy handed me a stack of papers and started explaining what the machine found out. He said I had some really bad balance issues (I was hoping he meant my truck). The sheets showed me what my runout & Road Force was before and after the procedure. Anything under 11lbs of Road Force acceptable. One tire before the procedure was at 55lbs and one was at 34lbs. After the procedure, all of them were below 5lbs.

What a difference this has made in the handling and ride of the truck. I highly recommend this to anyone with a shimmy or shake they can't get rid of. My truck rides like brand new.

87.  Muffler Install on a Trooper:


88.  How to change oil Trooper and Rodeo


89.  Trailer Harness location

link to photo  link to second photo

90.  Looking for new center caps for your Isuzu wheels?

If so check out: ebay

91. anyone know where to get ALTEZZA taillights for 98 rodeo?
As of Feb2010 no one has ever made them.  
92. How to replace the starter on a Trooper, Rodeo, Amigo, VX
note: for a 2wd Isuzu you will not have to drop the exhaust. The secret.... Remove the 4, 14mm engine mount bolts, 2 on 
each side just below the exhaust manifold.
 Easily accessible but putting them back can be a challenge, just be patient. Anyways, once removed jack 
up the car the actually jack up the engine. with the engine lifted about 1" or so it will give you enough 
room to remove the starter out the rear of the truck with alittle wiggleing to line it up through the opening.
 I actually slid out the old and slid in the new one under @ 3minutes total after lifting the engine.



for my 1999 Isuzu Amigo V6 2WD there is no exhaust cutting or engine bolt removal.

The starter is up kind of above the oil pan. There was a small bracket or splash guard in the way of the bolts that unbolted with two 10mm bolts and then two 14mm bolts for the starter. I used an extension and 3/8" drive sockets. The bolts came out easily (some places online say to use 1/2" drive hardware, these are also the places that say you have to cut the exhaust pipe). Work the starter out towards the front of the car, it won't come out going straight down, and undo the two cables (the negative snaps out, the positive needs a 12mm wrench). Connect new starter and work it back into place and bolt it back in. Start your car with one turn of the key. One of the easiest of the many Isuzu repairs I have done.

I say all this because all the advice onine makes this sound like a huge job to do, and I want people who are searching the internet to find one person who says it is not that difficult ... at least for my particular model. I don't know if the difference is just my year or everyone else has 4WD or if I'm more than a little lucky, because in most other respects the Amigo is just a longer Rodeo with few other differences. Either way before you go to the mechanic because you don't want to cut exhaust pipes go ahead and crawl under the car and check it out, it may not be too hard of a job. It may be of help to go ahead and buy the replacement starter from Autozone so you can tell what you are looking for and how it bolts in there. You can always return it.


93. Brake lights and cruise control stops when I turn on the headlights.

Remove your brake light bulbs and put them back in again.


94. Possible fix for a blinking check engine light (CEL)


95. Wheel Alignment how to

Link to document


  since February 2004

Last updated: 13 Feb 2011